Thoughts and thanks

I have been in Halifax a few days now, I really do like this city and Grace has been a wonderful host. But I would be lying if I didn't admit to feeling somewhat flat about the trip coming to an end. I started riding on 3 July from Campbell River, BC and 7575km, 9 provinces and 75 days of riding later I arrived in Halifax, NS on 9 October.

Tomorrow I will head back to Ottawa. This adventure really started on 22 June with a drive across Canada with Laura and it has come full circle as I will drive back with her. She is an amazing friend and clearly really wanted to come and pick me up, I told her it was a crazy idea but she schemed to visit another friend in Halifax and would not take no for an answer!!

It is hard for me to think of highlights as there were so many. What started off as an adventure ended up being a once in a lifetime journey that I will never forget but it really was the people who made it such a special trip and I just want to say thanks again to everyone I met on the road especially those who gave me a place to sleep, good food and great company. 

Friends; Laura and her family, Penny, Heather, Jen and Jay, Scott, Cat, Dave and Louise, Markus, Ivan, Rick, Susie, Marilyn and Russ, Yannick and Erin, Jane and Jared, Claude, Danielle, Louise and Roland, Treena, Nancy, Karen, Grace.

Friends and family of friends; Pascale, Joan and Dave, Elaine, Dan and Shelley, Michelle, JoAnn and Bill, Mickey, Monique and Pierre, Judy and Jim. 

Warmshowers hosts; Kevin and Gay, Helen and Daniel, Sarah, Gord, Muriel and Wayne, Greg and Carolyn, Eby and Jenna, Phil, Jan, Anna and family, Bill, Bob and Glenda.

Kind hearted strangers; Don and Doreen, Bruce and Carol, Dale, Joe and Barb, Karin, Andrew, Carmel and Rod, Arlene.

Fellow touring cyclists, runners and walkers; Anna, Astrid and Eric, Sebastien, Paul, Blair, Marie-Claude, Boyd, Simon and friends, Kate, Reinaldo, Rejean, Andy, Jason. 

Thanks also to everyone who has been following the blog and facebook, your comments and emails have been hugely appreciated and sorry if I did not reply to each and every one!!

This is the end of an amazing year of personal choices and challenges. I left the government last October because I felt I needed a change, the job was no longer challenging me and I didn't feel I was growing or learning. I spent last winter as a dog sled guide with Chocpaw Expeditions in South River near Algonquin Park in Ontario. Arriving there as a rookie guide, early on I felt quite out of my depth, lets just say I did not have the typical background of a guide but they saw something in me when I interviewed in the summer for a job and I am so incredibly grateful that they gave me a chance. I learnt so much about myself and realised that the qualities that had made me a successful research scientist could be applied in a vastly different field. I strongly believe that hard work and a humble attitude are the most significant factors to success and if you want something badly enough you will find a way to make it happen. I will have a few weeks off now before flying out west for a second season of mushing dogs, it was a difficult decision not to return to Chocpaw but I long to be closer to the mountains and will be working for Kingmik, guiding on trips out of Lake Louise. Who knows what next summer will bring??

You only live once and life really is what you make it, there is a whole world out there and sometimes you have to make choices, sometimes you have to decide to take a risk, to move outside of your comfort zone and see what happens, and who knows you might discover new talents and passions and find out that you are capable of so much more than you ever imagined!!

Arriving at Wood Islands, PEI with Judy.

Bring on the snow!! (Picture credit, Danielle Cardinal).

9 October - I guess this is it!!

Truro to Halifax 95km (7575km total).

I had mixed feelings on my last day, I was excited to be headed to Halifax but still not ready for this trip to end. Bob produced an endless supply of waffles for breakfast and then said they had decided to ride with me for the first part of the day. I was really happy I would have a bit more time with these two, as usual I always find my time with Warmshowers folks is never long enough!!

Bob and Glenda, my final warmshowers hosts for this trip.

They decided to ride with me for the first 35km of my last day which was awesome.

It was going to be another windy day and they insisted I ride between them so I had it pretty easy spinning along behind Glenda. Again we were off the main highway which is always a massive bonus. I was smiling the whole way and when we got to Stewiacke Bob and Glenda were obviously enjoying themselves too as they decided to keep going to Shubenacadie with me. Now tucked in behind Bob we made good time into the wind, I guess they realised it would take them no time to get home when they finally turned around!! In Shubenacadie Bob suggested we stop at a restaurant for a drink before saying our goodbyes and we ended up ordering apple crisp which was incredibly good and probably had enough sugar to easily get me to Halifax! I was sad to be leaving them, although I had only met them for a short time I felt like I had known them for much longer and loved riding with them. 

Of course it was windy when I set off on my own but today I didn't really care, it was sunny and I knew I would make it to Halifax. Although it was the last day of my trip I didn't feel tired. It was a beautiful road and passes through a region with lots of lakes, the fall colours were still stunning and the water shimmered in the sun. I came into Dartmouth along the Waverley Road and passed the campground I had stayed in with my parents on the last night of our RV trip this time last year and then the Canadream office that we had picked up the RV. I have been to Halifax a few times and felt familiar with the roads but I decided to take the ferry across from Dartmouth as I wanted to get to the boardwalk in Halifax and that would save crossing the busy MacDonald bridge. I followed the signs for the ferry terminal and ended up in a parking lot but it wasn't obvious where you got the ferry so I asked a lady pushing a bike with a small child. She said she would show me and we walked around the side of a building to find the entrance. She went to hold the door for me and asked me where I had come from, "I just cycled from Vancouver Island" I said in a somewhat stunned voice, "I guess this is it, this is the end!!". She grabbed my arm and said "Really, oh my God, that is amazing, all on your own!!" she was so stunned and excited for me, she gave me an awkward high-five and if we hadn't both been holding bikes I am pretty sure she would have hugged me. I pushed my bike into the ferry terminal and while waiting fired off a few quick text messages. I paced around with a stupid smile on my face not really knowing what to do before boarding the ferry. I stood on the deck and took in the downtown Halifax skyline. All the passengers were sitting quietly going about their normal daily routines and I wanted to tell them "I did it, I cycled across Canada" !! I got my phone out to take some photos and a message popped up saying I didn't have enough room, so I had to hurriedly delete some older ones to make room. 

When I got off the ferry I wasn't sure what to do or where to go. As I had never planned to cross Canada I had not dipped my tires in the Pacific which is the tradition, therefore I wasn't sure where I was going to 'officially' end. I pedalled slowly along the familiar boardwalk in Halifax, weaving in and out of the tourists, from the ferry I could see 2 big cruise ships were in port. I couldn't believe how lucky I was to have finished on such a beautiful day. I got to the end of the boardwalk and saw Pier 21, it had opened in 1928 and was the primary port of entry for a million immigrants. Last year I visited the Canadian Museum of Immigration now housed in the building and as an immigrant to Canada was touched by the history and stories I heard and read. As a new Canadian citizen it seemed an appropriate final destination so I leant my bike and Bob against a post and stood back to take a photo. It took me 3 attempts as my bike toppled over twice and I had to go back and stand it up, I couldn't help but laugh.

Angus MacDonald bridge from Dartmouth ferry.

Downtown Halifax skyline from Dartmouth ferry.

George's Island and cruise ship from waterfront boardwalk.

As a new Canadian citizen I decided Pier 21 would make a good final destination.

I peddled back along the boardwalk and stopped at a picnic table to have a snack and post something to the blog. I was wondering what the heck I was supposed to do next when a guy approached me and asked me if I had been travelling. I noticed he was pushing a bike and had a helmet on. Jason was from Taiwan and had arrived in Halifax yesterday having cycled across Canada as part of a larger world trip. We sat and shared stories and then he played me a song on his Chinese violin (he is busking along the way). The sun was going down and it was getting chilly so after exchanging email addresses I wished him well and headed off to find Grace's place. I had forgotten how steep some of the streets in Halifax are and had to push my bike up one of them, but I decided it didn't matter as I was technically finished!! It was awesome to see Grace, I know her through search and rescue in Ottawa and although it had been a while since we were in touch she was so excited to see me and hear about my adventures. She ordered in pizza and we chatted until late. 

Meeting Jason who had arrived the day before after cycling across the country.

Jason playing me a song on his Chinese violin.

8 October - My final Warmshowers and hopefully last rain shower!!

Wood Islands to Truro 81km (7480km total).

I had eggs and ham for breakfast and Judy insisted on filling my bag with sandwiches, apples, muffins and ju-jubes while Jim helped me set-up Bob. It was only a 5km ride to the ferry and they said they would shut up the cottage and come and wave me off. As I approached the ferry I saw Andy jogging down the road and we stood in the lime-up together. We couldn't help but notice a few cars were being turned away and then an employee came up to us and told us the ferry had broken down and they didn't know when it would be going again!! This trip has gone so smoothly I couldn't believe this would be happening now. Driving back to the bridge might be an option in a car but by bike or foot it wasn't!! There was a cafe on site so Andy and I headed there to hang out. When Judy and Jim arrived Jim said there was another ferry so they would probably send that over, they said to keep in touch because they knew people in the area if we did get stranded and after more hugs I said my final good-byes to them.

It was great to be able to spend some time with Andy and I learnt a bit more about his endeavours. Last summer he ran from Vancouver to Thunder Bay and this summer having started from Thunder Bay he is heading for Newfoundland. He is picking up garbage on the side of the road and recycling bottles and cans in the towns he passes to raise awareness about recycling. Then next summer he will start in Newfoundland and work his way back across the country, because he wants to clean the other side of the road. Like all the other cyclists I have met and those walking and running he was incredibly humble about what he is doing. He has met a number of the same people I have this summer including Sebastien, Astrid and Eric and I asked him how he found stopping last year and returning to a more 'normal' life for the winter. His response, just start planning your next trip!! I am really going to miss the people I have met on the road, there is a special bond between us and it is difficult to explain unless you have undertaken such a journey. It was partly knowing that Sebastien would be running until mid November that gave me the idea to keep going to Halifax and I think if I had spent much longer with Andy I might have turned left instead of right off the ferry and headed towards Newfoundland!!

For those of you on facebook you can support Andy here https://www.facebook.com/millionbottlepledge
and Sebastien here https://www.facebook.com/CanadaRuns or at http://www.outrundiabetes.ca/

In the end we were only an hour or so behind schedule as they sent another ferry and sped us across to Nova Scotia. Both Andy and I were trying to make use of the wifi to update blogs and emails etc. and the crossing flew by. I convinced Andy to accept some of my yummy food (thanks Judy) and wished him the best of luck before he hit the road.

Good-bye PEI.

The Nova Scotia flag flying proudly on the ferry.

Nova Scotia, my 9th and final province.

Andy heading down the road.

I was heading for Truro and my final Warmshowers stay for this trip. Bob had sent me quite detailed directions for a route that would keep me off the highway. Whether I would stay dry would be another issue as the cloudy sky got increasingly dark as I approached Pictou. I followed the 376 through a few small towns and then got sucked in by a sign for a historic wood church. The sign indicated 1km but I ended up on a dirt road and then had to go through a farm before eventually finding the spot. It was quite pretty with the backdrop of the fall colours and a view over Loch Broom so I sat and had lunch. There was also a monument to the Cameron's who had emigrated to Canada from Scotland. Nova Scotia is latin for New Scotland. 

Loch Broom historic wood church.

Monument to the Cameron's who emigrated to Canada from Scotland. I will be staying with Grace Cameron in Halifax!!

Then I followed the 4 most of the way to Truro. It was quite blustery but I was happy to be dry and made it most of the way to Truro before the heavens opened. But when they did they dumped a significant amount of water in a very short period of time and although I had enough time to put on my jacket and booties I got soaked. I arrived at Bob and Glenda's looking like a drowned rat. I really hope that will be my last soaking in the rain. Bob and Glenda were awesome, they have a basement apartment for guests and put a sheet down for my wet bag, gave me a clothes horse to hang my wet clothes and newspaper to stuff my shoes. I showered and put on dry clothes before heading upstairs. They were so easy to talk to and have bike toured all over the world, most recently in the Spanish Pyrenees. They would not let me help with dinner and instead gave me a chair to sit on in the kitchen so they could hear all about my trip. We had a wonderful pasta dish followed by Bob's strawberry shortcake for dessert. I am really going to miss the Warmshowers part of this experience, everyone I have stayed with has been so friendly and interesting and I have loved to hear their stories while realising how special my trip has been as I share mine. 

7 October - Charming Charlottetown

Charlottetown to Wood Islands 66km (7399km total).

I spent a wonderful few days with Judy and Jim, and they treated me like royalty and I wasn't allowed to do anything. They fed me so incredibly well and Jim insisted on taking Bob's wheel to get a new spoke. Judy took me on a tour of some of the island (it is much bigger than I imagined) and we walked on the beach in the National Park, had tea and pie near Rustico and drove past Green Gables. The next day we walked Charlottetown, it is a charming little town with a lot of history. 2014 has been a big year as the 150th anniversary of the Confederation. We also had some amazing fish and chips, even I was impressed!! 

The beach at Brackley, PEI National Park.

North Rustico Harbour.

Confederation Landing Park, Peakes Wharf.

We had to have an ice cream!! I had apple crisp flavour and it was incredible.

Painting of the Fathers of Confederation at Province House, Charlottetown.

One of a few new statues put in place this year for the 150 anniversary of Confederation, across the road from St Dunstans Basilica.

Fish and chip supper :)

Sunset in the harbour.

My plan was to ride to the ferry at Wood Islands, make it across to Nova Scotia and then find somewhere to stay the night but then I found out that Judy and Jim stay at a cottage near Wood Islands!! It worked out perfectly, I biked to Belfast and met Judy and Jim there and she got to bike the last stretch with me to the cottage. We had time to walk on the beach and for Jim to take us on a scenic drive that ended up on dirt roads before supper and an early night. 

I had stopped to say hi to her 97yr old Mum and sister on my way out of town and then followed the Trans Canada which was quiet with a good shoulder. I met Andy who is running across Canada, and picking up bottles and cans on his way to highlight the issue of recycling.

4 October - PEI, the penultimate province

Shemogue to Charlottetown 95km (7333km total).

It was a damp start to the day but after breakfast with Bill I knew I had to get going. As usual with my Warmshowers experiences I always wish I could stay a little longer with the interesting folks I have been so fortunate to meet. 

I took the 955 to the bridge but it was really slow going with a strong headwind coming off the water. It seemed to take forever to make the 35km and Bob got a flat tire about 3km from the bridge but I just pumped it up and hoped to find somewhere more sheltered to replace it. Initially I had been disappointed to hear you could not ride the 12km long bridge but today I was grateful as I am sure I would have been blown right over the side!! There is a shuttle service for pedestrians and cyclists and lucky for me there was a guy waiting so we put Bob in the back of the truck and my bike beside the back seats. Unfortunately just as we were about to leave a pedestrian showed up so I had to squeeze in the back with my bike. It was hard to get any good pictures of the bridge as it was so grey and foggy. 

I picked up a map from the Visitor Info centre where the shuttle dropped me off and set about replacing Bob's flat tire. On careful inspection I found a tiny piece of sharp metal sticking through and struggled to remove it before resorting to tweeers again!! I also discovered a broken spoke which I removed and will hopefully be able to replace on Monday.

There are no pictures from PEI because it took all my energy just to make it to Charlottetown. It was exceptionally windy and I took the main Trans Canada route across the island as it had a shoulder and was the most direct. My legs were completely spent, in hindsight I don't think I ate enough yesterday for the mileage I did and it didn't matter what I ate today I literally was running on empty. I also realised I have ridden for 10 days straight since leaving Quebec City. I was having to spin small gears just to get up shallow inclines and I cannot remember the last time I had to just stop on the side of the road to eat because I could not go any further.

I was due to be staying with Judy and Jim, a friends parents and I called them around 4:30pm to say I was on my way but slower than planned. Judy had just got in from riding and was incredibly sympathetic having had a horrible time in the wind herself and so offered to come and pick me up but I stubbornly said I would keep riding. It took me another 2 hours to make the final 27km to their place as the light was begining to fade. Yesterday I had averaged 24km/hr and today only 18km/hr. 

Judy and Jim were so excited to see me and after a shower served up a delicious meal. They are keen to show me around Charlottetown and Prince Edward Island my penultimate province, so I will most likely stay 2 days here before riding to the ferry at Woods Island that will take me to Nova Scotia and only 2 days ride from Halifax.

3 October - 80% mental

Miramichi to Shemogue 148km (7238km total).

Some days are slow and scenic with lots of stops to look at cool stuff like herons fishing a couple of days ago. Other days are just about getting the miles in, like today. The long range forecast suggested rain on Sunday so I was pretty determined to get to Charlottetown, PEI by Saturday afternoon. With the goal of a Warmshowers host in Shemogue I put on clean riding clothes, made oatmeal for breakfast, boiled water for my thermos and spread peanut butter on the bagels I had left. 80% of this trip has been mental so in my head I split the day into 3 and headed back to highway 11.

It was a long straight road with a pretty good shoulder and beautiful fall colours. Although this area is a mixture of Acadian and Mik'maq it also seems to have adopted the concept of counties from England and I rode from Northumberland into Kent on the 52km stretch to Richibucto. I had an early chilli lunch at Tim's as this has given me good energy previously and sent some emails I had been thinking about. I was on my way out when I met Jack, a young British guy who is planning a cross Canada ride next summer and after answering a number of his questions and giving him my blog and email addresses I was back on the road. 

I rode 63km to Shediac which has the 'world's largest lobster' at a decent pace, making another refuelling stop before the final 33km to Shemogue. The easterly wind had been neither significantly helping or hindering me most of the day as I was riding predominately south but at Shediac I turned east and into the wind. Initially I took the coastal 133 but moved inland to the 15 in the hope it would be less windy, it wasn't but the road surface was better and there was a shoulder.

My Warmshowers host Bill was a lobster fisherman and a really interesting guy. His 

wife Marilyn does silk painting and although she was away Bill showed my the studio he built for her. I spent a fascinating evening talking with Bill and learnt quite a bit about lobster fishing and the effect of the Confederation Bridge on the ecology of the Northumberland Straight. 

Fall colours by the road.

World's largest lobster in Shediac.

2 October - Living it up

Bathurst to Miramichi 100km (7090km total).

It was another crisp fall day. I had been toasty bundled up in my sleeping bag last night but it was hard to get out of it this morning. Anna invited me to join them for breakfast before I headed off, multigrain oatmeal with some stewed rhubarb was a good start to the day. I picked up a few supplies on my way through Bathurst as I knew there were no real places to stop on the way to Miramichi other than one gas station. 

I took the quieter 134 south through Allardville until it joined the 8. And I found the painted hearts again!! I was pretty sure I had lost them, but there they were and they showed me a back way into Miramichi. The fall colours were great and the Acadian flags continued to be flown proudly. Getting over the impressive bridge in Miramichi during afternoon rush hour was a little sketchy as construction had it down to one lane and I peddled as fast as I could to get through with a truck up my arse!!

I am staying at Camping Miramichi and decided to live it up in celebration of passing the 7000km milestone today. They have some treehouses so I am in one of them, it's still pretty damn chilly and there is no-one else here!!

The Acadian flag.

Quiet roads and beautiful fall colours.

Meeting up with hwy 8 again and heading for the impressive bridge in Miramichi.

My home for the night.

The treehouse.

It's pretty basic inside, a bed and 2 bunks with a solar light but still pretty cool.

1 October - Glad I waited

Dalhousie to Bathurst 89km (6990km total).

It dawned bright and clear although still around 5C so I slowly packed my stuff, had some breakfast and headed out. I am so glad I stayed the night and waited out the weather as it was a beautiful ride down the coast. I watched herons hunting in the shallows at Eel Point and there were lots of geese flying overhead. This area is Acadian so there were still plenty of churches and flags flying proudly. For some time I could look across to the Gaspe peninsula. 

At Petit-Rocher I saw a Tim Hortons and fully loaded touring bike and went in to investigate. I found Rejean on his way back to Gatineau (across the river from Ottawa) from the Iles-de-la-Madeleine where he had gone to dance the tango with a lady!! He was an interesting guy who had done a number of bike trips.

When I got to Bathurst I headed to a Warmshowers host Anna and met her Mum JoAnn and young daughter Rowan. I pitched my tent in their backyard before enjoying some homemade soup and a nice evening of conversation. Anna had toured Australia and New Zealand and hosted a few people I had met earlier in my trip.

Inch Arran Point, Dalhousie.

Hard to see but there are 3 herons hunting in the shallows (Eel river).

Chapel by the sea.

Rejean outside Tim's.