30 August - Taking in strays

White River to Wawa 95km (4485km total).

I could write about riding in the rain for 95km, which took just over 4 hours with a trailer. But there are no photos and not much to tell, it was wet and the shoulder was particularly crap. We did see a couple of young moose quite close to the road and it definitely would have been quite scenic if the weather had been better but we just put our heads down and rode, making just 3 short stops all day. We also had lots of cars honk at us which was cool, I think it was partly the weather, they must have thought we were crazy!!

A couple of days ago I was exchanging messages with Cat in Ottawa and she asked if we had somewhere to stay in Wawa. When I said not she said she would try and find someone. By the morning she had sent me the name and phone number of a lady called Karin who apparently had taken in cyclists in the past. When I called her she was very excited and said she had some salmon, she also mentioned the weather forecast was not good and she could pick us up in her truck if needed, she said to call again from White River the morning we left. 

It was raining quite heavily when we woke up in White River, we waited a while but the forecast was for rain all day so eventually we just had to get going. Blair managed to get some cheap rubber waterproofs in Home Hardware and I called Karin to tell her were on our way, she was pretty insistent she could pick us up and I struggled to explain I had got this far and would really to cycle!! We knew we were going to get really wet but we also knew there would be somewhere other than a tent to dry stuff which really helps.

We spent the evening with Karin, Mickey her dog and 2 cats. She fed us so well, salmon with potatoes and veggies and hollandaise sauce, followed by wild blueberries and cream with homemade blueberry loaf and lots of tea. We even had ice cream and cookies before bed!! She was an amazing lady born in Germany who came here over 50yrs ago (I think she must be in her seventies although you would never guess) and originally trained as a seamstress / dressmaker. We couldn't quite work out the connection to Cat and she has never taken in cyclists before just stray cats and dogs but she figured we would need the same things, food and a bed!! She is clearly heavily involved in the local community and helps anyone and everyone, she had seen the guy running across Canada last year in the superhero costume and taken him in for a few days. She really wanted us to stay a day so she could take us out to her cottage. She was fascinated by our bikes and our trips and we had such a wonderful evening with her.

Winnie the Pooh in White River.

Winnie the Pooh history.

The Wawa goose.

29 August - Singing in the rain

Marathon to White River 101km (4390km total).

We had a slow start as Barb and Joe offered us waffles and fruit salad for  breakfast!! We knew we only had 100km to White River so we ate and chatted, then walked down to the beach. It was probably 11am when we said our goodbyes. We stopped for groceries and then spotted a touring bike in town so doubled back to say hi. Marie is riding solo and started in Newfoundland. We exchanged email addresses and some route advice etc. Now it was almost 12noon as we climbed the hill out of Marathon and back to the highway.

Joe and Barb's cycling gnome.

Pebble Beach, Marathon.

Blair and Marie in Marathon.

It was pretty cloudy and windy, it is becoming harder to dress so you are not too cold or too hot (especially when you throw hills into that too). We knew there would not be too much to see today as we headed inland. The rain eventually caught up with us, just drizzle initially then it got heavier. After 60km we pulled into White Lake Provincial Park hoping for a covered spot for lunch. After a few km's there was a kiosk, it was pouring rain and we were obviously wet but the lady was pretty unhelpful when I asked about a covered picnic spot plus the main part of the park was a further 3km off the highway. There was a maintenance guy standing in the corner and he asked how much room we needed, I stood close to him and held my hands to my mouth as if eating a sandwich and said this much!! He suggested we use the woodshed by the kiosk which was perfect but the lady looked at me suspiciously as if I might leave with a few unpaid bundles of firewood!! 

After a quick lunch we still had about 40km to go. I told Blair to go for it, he is faster than me and only has a lightweight cycling jacket, no booties or waterproof pants, no fenders on his bike and no body fat!! He somewhat reluctantly went on, I knew White River was a small place and I would find him. So a wet few hours followed, the trucks made a lot of spray and at times the rain was so heavy I could barely see properly. I was pretty sure Blair would find a motel as this rain is forecast to continue all night and into tomorrow so I sang to myself as I rode. Some of the drivers must have thought I was crazy smiling and singing but what else is there to do!! 

I found Blair in a motel and we decided to find dinner in a small restaurant that was attached to the motel because we were both tired and hungry. It was pretty pricey but filling and then we found a laundry at the truck stop and dryed all our wet stuff. Finally we made the bathroom in our room into a drying room for our bike shoes by cranking up the heater and shutting the door. Our stuff should all be dry and ready to go for the morning but currently there are rainfall warnings out for here to Wawa!!

28 August - 8 weeks completed, 2 weeks to Ottawa

Terrace Bay to Marathon 85km (4289km total).

We hung around in the motel for a while due to dense fog, although we were right on the highway we could hardly see it!! We had a big breakfast of fruit, yogurt, granola and juice because we were close to a grocery store and had a fridge in the motel room which was a whole lot better than oatmeal!! Finally we decided we just had to go for it so put on our lights and headed out. After a few km's we rode out of it and into a pretty nice day. The road was fairly hilly but there were some nice viewpoints. At one we met a guy in an orange westfalia with Northwest Territory plates, he was heading back to Inuvik and offered us some fresh fruit, he also told us the train was coming and I think I managed to get my best train shot of the trip so far (see below).

Bridge over the Steel River.

Viewpoint.

Train shot, although photo doesn't do it justice.

There were quite a few hills, Blair has a fancy bike computer and by the end of the day we had climbed over 900m (would have been interesting to know the cumulative climbing during my days in BC). He rides a bit faster than me and I have decided not to try and keep up with him, I have developed a pace that has worked for the last 8 weeks and I am happy with it. So I got an interesting perspective today, almost an out of body experience as I watched Blair on the road ahead, I realised this is what I must have looked like for the last 8 weeks. I watched him struggle into the wind, have the occasional Bob wobble on the descents and get passed very closely a few times by trucks. It made me more appreciative of what I have been through. Unfortunately the shoulders are still very inconsistent ranging from a fully paved one the width of a lane to a few cm's to the right of the white line!!

Blair had arranged to stay with a guy in Marathon that he had met in Nelson last winter and Joe rode out to meet us and escorted us into town. He offered us tea and we chatted until Barb his wife came home. Then after we had showered they served up chicken fajitas with all the trimmings, it was the best food I have had in a while. Joe and Barb were wonderful people and have clearly got involved with a number of people crossing Canada by bike and last year Joe ran with the British guy who was running across in a superhero costume so we talked until late with lots of tea.

Today marked 8 weeks of riding and tentatively I think I will be riding into Ottawa in about 2 weeks.

27 August - Finally another cyclist going the same way!!!

Nipigon to Terrace Bay 109km (4204km total).

It was a chilly night in my tent down by the water in Nipigon and for the first time in the trip I used the outer bag Laura kindly lent me. But I think part of the problem might have been that I 'pitched' my tent on concrete under a pavilion in case of rain. I started the day in extra clothing including arm warmers, long sleeved shirt, leg warmers and booties!!

The ride today was awesome, the nicest day for a while. There were hills but that also meant views. I am optimistic that the worst of Ontario is behind me. I passed the split where the 11 goes north and 17 south. I will take the 17, longer with more hills but hopefully less traffic and more to see.

Viewpoint.

There were some decent climbs today, up to 7% gradient but they were relatively (compared to BC) short. There were also some big downhills, I got up to 55kmh at one point until a gust of wind and remembered that a speeding Bob plus wind equals some scary wobbles!!

Scenic view back during a climb.

Rock cuts on the road, unfortunately the pink colouring of the rock doesn't show up.

I stopped in Rossport a picturesque small town with a harbor. At the marina I got chatting to some boys fishing and met Max their friendly dog (I realised I have missed dogs this summer and have had a longing to go up to anyone with one!!). I thought about stopping at the cafe for some lunch but had food and Laura had told me about a beach just up the road so I headed there. It was a beautiful spot and not very busy. 

Little store in Rossport, loved the sign on the front door.

Scenic view from husband's waiting bench.

Not far up the road I heard someone behind me, we started up a conversation and then pulled over. It was another cyclist, going the same way, with a Bob!! I had pretty much given up hope of this happening after 4000 solo kilometres!! I was the first cyclist Blair had met too and I think he was very happy. He had started in Nelson, BC and was headed to Meaford on Georgian Bay. He had experienced a lot of wet weather in Manitoba and hitch hiked for a while. We were both headed to Terrace Bay for the night so rode together including a quick side trip up to the Aguassabon Falls. Blair had a motel booked so offered for me to join him, turns out his room had 2 beds and we managed to squeeze in 2 bikes and 2 Bob trailers. We spent the evening chatting and sharing stories and will ride together for the next couple of days. 

Aguasabon Falls and gorge.

26 August - Passing the 4000km mark

Thunder Bay to Nipigon 115km (4095km total).

It was a fairly straightforward day. I was able to ride the first 30km on Lakeshore Drive instead of the highway which was great, especially as it didn't seem to be a very well travelled road. I did stumble across this sign which was interesting!! As I am going south over Manitoulin Island and the Bruce Peninsula I estimate I have about 1700km to Ottawa.

Today I passed the 4000km mark, I should have made it on the ride into Thunder Bay but as I only rode 90 of the planned 130km it had to wait until today.

I arrived in Nipigon in good time so went to Tim's for some food and wifi. I ended up being there for a couple of hours as it started to rain. I had a lady offer me a place to stay in Sault Ste Marie (she has cycled across Canada). A guy gave me his business card after a long chat as he is a paralegal in this area and works closely with the police, he said he would give me his card just in case anything happened. As I was talking with him and his wife another guy came up and asked if I was the cyclist, he then handed me $10 and told me to be safe!!

Eventually I left about 6:30, unfortunately I discovered the local grocery store had closed for the day so then I had to go back to Tim's for some supplies for tomorrow. I got a bit wet on the way to the campground which cost $10 for the night and is basically in a park by the marina, I found a pavilion structure and decided to pitch my tent under it to try and stay a little drier. It has also been noticeably cooler today.

Tour of Thunder Bay

There was an impressive storm overnight with lots of rain, thunder and lightening. This is the third city I have been in (after Regina and Winnipeg) where I have felt incredibly fortunate to be in a house, instead of a tent during a storm, maybe someone is looking out for me (although it's a shame he/she clearly has no influence on the wind!!). 

I biked around in the morning doing some errands. Biking without Bob almost doesn't count as biking it feels so easy!! I had lunch at Hoito's famous Finnish restaurant (fortunately not famous for expensive prices!!). It opened in 1918 on the bottom floor of the Finnish Labour Temple and has been in continuous operation since. Hoito means care in Finnish and it opened to provide affordable and filling meals for the logging camp workers who had found accommodation in town. As it is known for the Finnish pancakes I sampled them and I wasn't disappointed!!

In the afternoon Jo-Ann and Bill took me on a tour. First up to the Terry Fox Memorial. If you are not Canadian and do not know who he is hopefully you can zoom in on the photo below or look him up. His 1980 marathon of hope inspired a nation and still inspires. I have no idea how he ran a marathon a day with a prosthetic leg, he must have been incredibly strong, it's amazing what you can achieve when you put your mind to something.

Then we stopped at a number of parks. I got some good views of Lake Superior, the largest of the Great Lakes and largest freshwater lake in the world. I am going to be following its shores for quite some time between here and Sault Ste Marie. The cloud cleared enough at one point for me to see the famous Sleeping Giant. 

Then we went out to Mount Mackay lookout for views over the city and lake. And also stopped at Chippewa with a long history. It was great to see some of Thunder Bay's highlights and we went for Chinese on the way home. Great day in Thunder Bay!!

 

24 August - Making a judgement call

Savanne River Resort to Thunder Bay 90km (3980km total).

Again it rained overnight but by morning it had stopped although it was cloudy and damp. I hurriedly took down the tent (almost losing it in the river in a gust of wind) in case the rain started again and threw everything in Bob before wheeling my bike to the washroom where I figured I could charge my phone whilst making oatmeal and get dressed for the day in the warm!!

I put on all my lights, 6 in total, as with all the clouds it was quite dark. Two blinky ones on my helmet (front and back), one on the trailer, one on my saddlebag and two on my handlebars. I realised it was going to be another windy day and put my head down thinking at least I would be somewhere tonight, in Thunder Bay, not another roadside campground in the middle of nowhere. It was Sunday but the traffic was busy and the shoulder non-existent. The wind was gusting the strongest I had experienced on this trip and at times it was a struggle to hold my line. Then 3 or 4 transport trucks (they always seemed to travel in little groups) would come the other way, on there own they are fine but a few in quick succession create quite a powerful wind, even from the other side of the road. If I haven't already explained the hwy through Northern Ontario is a single lane each way with passing lanes every now and again. Not double lanes, no central median like the Prairies and there are no real alternatives for anyone to this one road. 

I have to be honest it wasn't fun but I pushed on, I haven't listened to anything since the day into Portage la Prairie, I don't think it is safe without a big shoulder and I needed all my senses to be hyperalert. I remembered today was the Share the Road ride in Ottawa in memory of Mario Theoret who was tragically killed on the roads in Ottawa last fall. He was an experienced and sensible cyclist and one of life's good guys, giving selflessly to helping kids get into biking with Trips for Kids Ottawa and trail maintenance with OMBA (Ottawa Mountain Bike Association). His death affected me, I was at the time on an Emergency Medical Responder course in BC with a plan to apply for Paramedic School but I didn't finish the course and decided that I was not sure I could deal with the emotional side of attending to seriously injured or ill patients and potentially death and dying on a regular basis.

I have no idea why on a Sunday morning so many people seemed to be in such a rush to get somewhere. I witnessed several pretty daring overtaking manoevres and more than one car coming straight at me as they moved into the oncoming lane to pass. Some of them clearly saw me and made the wise decision not to pass, others just kept going either oblivious or ignorant, so I stopped and moved onto the gravel shoulder for my own safety a few times. I experienced trucks passing trucks going the same way as me so the poor guy being passed had nowhere to go and squeezed me out. I was getting frustrated and angry and fearing for my safety. I have made it this far in the trip but for the first time I really didn't want to be on the road, not because it was windy, or dark, or my legs were tired but because I didn't want to be involved in an accident. I have to admit earlier in the trip I read a book about James Cracknell, a double Olympic gold medallist in rowing for Great Britain who retired and became a very successful extreme athlete rowing the Atlantic, skiing to the South Pole etc. A few years ago he was cycling across the US for a challenge when he was struck on the back of the head by the wing mirror of a truck. It was a miracle he survived but he suffered a traumatic brain injury and has never quite been the same since, suffering personality changes and seizures (I know what you are thinking, probably not the best choice of reading material!!).

For at least 2 hours I struggled with the thought of stopping and hitching a ride. It was a horrible dilemma, I have got this far and I have made it through some tough days, I am stubborn and I felt I had a right to be biking on this road too. There was a rest area at the time change sign and I looked for potential vehicles to ask for a ride, anyone with a truck would do, I saw a guy but I couldn't do it, I knew I would regret the decision later, so back out onto the road I went. When I have read other blogs and discovered cyclists have taken rides I have been disappointed, feeling like they had cheated. But then another vehicle would pass into my lane, even a transport truck decided to pass another transport truck. I pulled onto the loose gravel shoulder as he headed straight for me shouting at the guy but my voice was lost in the wind and he probably didn't care anyway.

I stood on the shoulder for a while and then stuck out my thumb. I stood there awkwardly as vehicles screamed past. I wasn't even sure anyone could stop safely but I was halfway up an incline and people could see my from a long way down the road. I realise there is also risk in hitching a ride but at this point I decided that risk was less. Within a short time a 4x4 slowed and pulled onto the shoulder, I approached the passenger side window and the guy asked me how I was in a strong Kiwi accent. I told him I was not feeling safe and looking for a ride a bit further down the road, he looked at the bike and trailer and I said I could break it down and take the front wheel off the bike etc. which I did as it started putting his back seats down. As we were loading the bike in a police officer stopped to see if we were okay and I really hoped hitch hiking wasn't illegal in Ontario!!

Andrew was a well travelled guy who had clearly hitch hiked and picked up hitch hikers before. He was on his way home to Thunder Bay after a weekend of fishing. We zoomed along and chatted, he was happy to take me all the way into Thunder Bay, even via the Terry Fox memorial (I had heard that you are not allowed to cycle on the highway out of town making it hard to get to the memorial) but I didn't want to write off the ride all together so he agreed to drop me at Kakabeka Falls. He gave me his number and said if I changed my mind I could call him, he also showed me the satellite weather map on his phone with the rain that was on its way!!

Kakabeka Falls.

It was another 30km or so to Thunder Bay with wind and showers. The shoulder was good, until it ran out and there was a small sign indicating no bikes or pedestrians but no alternative route advice so I ignored it and kept going. The traffic was busy though and at the next intersection I checked my phone for an alternative route and took that. I stopped at the first Tim's I could find for a hot chocolate and called Jo-Ann and Bill, friends of Michelle who I had met in Winnipeg through Jane. Jo-Ann and Bill were retired and lived downtown and Michelle said they often out people up and would love to have me. I am getting much better at calling strangers and accepting offers to stay!! 

Jo-Ann and Bill were very welcoming and suggested I take a bath before dinner (I hope I don't smell too bad and they don't have a shower hence the bath!!). We chatted and they asked if I would leave in the morning or stay a day, I said I would love to if that was okay and they suggested driving around some of the sights in the afternoon. They very kindly let me do a quick load of laundry so it could hang to dry overnight and we had a cup of tea before bed.

23 August - Another day at the office

Ignace to Savanne River Resort 125km (3890km total).

Today was just about getting it done. Another day at the office if your day looks like this..... struggle to get out of bed, sit on your arse all day spinning your wheels, regularly check clock and wonder why time seems to be going so slowly!!

It was going to be 103km to Upsala with 2 road intersections and 1 picnic spot in between. The weather was again cloudy and windy and sadly today the shoulder deteriorated. At times I was left with a sliver of tarmac to the right of the white line marking the edge of the road which then turned into loose gravel. It definitely made things harder, I had to concentrate pretty much the whole time not to slip off as the trucks passed me and keep an eye out for motorists coming the other way who seemed to think passing was still a good idea and were coming almost straight at me.

These signs, exactly every 20km were almost the highlight of my day, until I stumbled upon a motel in the middle of nowhere that was actually open and had wifi which meant I could Skype home and wish my Dad a Happy Birthday. They had been for a bike ride along the river and ended up at the pub, I was more than a little envious and wished that could have been my cycling plan for the day.

I cycled 103km for this, this is Upsala and if I am honest I was hoping for a bit more!! I am standing on the steps of the general store where most of the shelves were empty and I paid almost $3 for a small bottle of iced tea. As the gas station that advertised camping was now closed I was glad there was another option about 20km east and hoped to get there before the heavens opened.

I actually ended up with a really nice spot for the night on the banks of the Savanne River. It was windy but that kept the bugs at bay. I decided to have a freeze dried meal for dinner as I have been carrying a few around for a while and then lay and read a book on my phone until it got dark. I am going to lose another hour tomorrow crossing from the central into eastern time zone so I decided to change my clocks before bed.

22 August - Not much to see in Northern Ontario

Wabigoon to Ignace 90km (3765km total).

I managed to pitch my tent and get set up before the rain started last night and although there was a lot of rain overnight it had stopped by the morning. The forecast for the next few days is wet but as it was just damp and overcast I set off with my waterproofs packed away. 

I wish I could write excitedly about Northern Ontario but the truth of it is there is not much to see apart from trees and some rocks and occasionally water. The road continues to be good with a wide shoulder which is great. I know I am going to lose it but every km I have a good shoulder is a blessing. Most of the traffic continues to be courteous.

I did see a moose today, unfortunately it was dead in the ditch. There are so many signs for moose in this area but it was sad to see. Most of the day was overcast and blustery. The highlight was probably the Raleigh Falls picnic spot.

Raleigh Falls.

I made it to Ignace in good time and headed straight to Subway where I had a foot long sub, 2 cookies and chocolate milk, did I mention my appetite seems to have increased!! It's amazing where the evenings go though, especially with the wetter weather, I didn't wipe down my bike or clean the chain this morning as I figured it would be wet today so I checked it over and put lube on the chain  etc. Fortunately the bugs have not been too bad so far.

Beach in Ignace, bit too chilly for a swim.

21 August - Wooly accessories

Vermilion Bay to Wabigoon 67km (3675km total).

The downside of sleeping inside a fort is that the large wooden doors are closed at night and not reopened until the owners arrive in the morning. So at 8:30 I was packed and ready to go. However Anna offered me some raisin toast and I was still hungry and it felt rude not to at least buy breakfast. I even had a chai latte, but then she wouldn't accept any money!! She told me to be safe and pay it forward and gave me a big hug.

The fort entrance from the inside.

As I was biking into the wind again I thought it might be a shorter day. With so few towns you pretty much have to stay where you can unless you want to wild camp (both Frank and Paul were big into that but I am still a bit chicken!!). So I was either going to have to stay in Dryden or make a huge push to Ignace for which a much earlier start would have been good. The advantage of being later was that I got to stop at Egli's sheep farm. Yesterday Paul had asked me how my body was holding up. In the last couple of weeks I have had some tingling and numbness in the outer 2 fingers of my left hand. I replaced my old gloves in Regina but that hasn't really helped. I guess I assumed it would be reversible and as it was on my left hand with my shortened and not very sensitive thumb tip it didn't matter so much. Paul had trendy wooly covers on his handlebars and he mentioned he had bought them on an earlier trip at Egli's. It's a good job I was biking with a trailer otherwise I could have spent quite a bit of money at the shop. I discovered the true wonders of wool last winter dog-sledding and this place had an amazing selection of wool pants and shirts as well as gloves and mitts.

I arrived in Dryden at lunchtime and checked out the tourist info for camping options. I took a picture of the moose outside but given that it was a grey and overcast day it didn't come out very well. Then I went to Tim's and ordered a large chilli, cup of tea and cinnamon roll. I poured over the map and camping guides I had picked up. I knew I wouldn't make Ignace today so was not in any rush. Finally I decided to push 20km up the road for a campground at Wabigoon, the weather forecast for tomorrow is wet so I figured it would be better to get those km's in while the clouds were still gathering. 

For the Brit's among you.

20 August - A night at the fort

Kenora to Vermilion Bay 97km (3608km total).

Any naive thoughts that the wind would no longer be a significant factor on the this trip were blown back into Manitoba, maybe even Saskatachewan today!!

So it was a slow ride east. There were not many places to stop although I did enjoy lunch at a very nice picnic area at Dixie Lake (Alberta take note, actually off the road, picnic tables, outhouses and garbage - but no recycling options!!).

To be honest I don't mind the hills, they are short compared to BC standards and at least give the ride some variety. The scenery is quintessential Canadian Shield and quite beautiful.

Having seen very few cyclists it was a pleasant surprise when Frank crossed the road to chat as I was stopped to get a stone out of my shoe. He is from Cortez, an island off the coast of Campbell River so was excited to learn roughly how far he still had to go!! He had been on the road a while including the UK and Ireland as well as Morocco and parts of Africa. He rolled a cigarette as we chatted and told me how far he had come in the last few days with the wind at his back. He was great fun and we had lots of high fives!!

I had hardly got back up to speed when there was another guy coming the other way who also came across the road for a chat. Paul was from Ottawa and by the time he gets to Vancouver it will be his 10th bike crossing!! He takes different routes and showed me a highlighted map, it blew my mind. He was very happy I had discovered bike touring and shared some tips. He also gave me his card, hopefully we will be able to meet up again back in Ottawa, I just wish some of these guys were going the same way as me!!

By the time I got to Vermilion Bay I was pretty pooped and stopped for a cold drink and ice cream at the gas station. I decided the 42km to Dryden could wait another day. I did a quick tour of town and didn't find any campgrounds, there was a provincial park, just 10mins up the road to the north according to the gas station lady but by bike that ain't 10mins!! I thought I remembered Astrid and Eric mentioning a small park by the lake with a pavilion which I found so I knew I could stealth camp there later if it came to it. I did see an info sign at a wooden fort like structure just off the highway and went in. There was no tourist info but there was a very nice cafe and as my appetite has increased in the last few days I ordered some food. I got chatting to the owner, an Italian lady, she said there wasn't really any camping in town but they were open until 9pm and there was a quiet room along the deck with a couch if I needed a nap, I told her if I did I might not wake up until morning!! So I ate, drank, used the wifi, dried my tent in the sun, played some keepy-uppy with a soccer ball lying around, read a cycling magazine Danielle had very kindly mailed to Winnipeg and chilled. I was packing up just before 9 when she said I could sleep on the couch in the quiet room overnight if I wanted to. I offered her money but she declined and so it came to be that I spent a night at the fort (actually a mock-up but still pretty cool I would say). At some point in the night I went out to use the bathroom and it was such a clear night and the stars looked stunning. 

Sign in the cafe where I ended up staying the night. 

19 August - Big province, big sign!!

Whitemouth to Kenora 130km (3511km total).

I set off in the fog and drizzle heading for the Ontario border. There were obviously big changes in scenery including lots of rock and trees!! I got some free downhill km's for the first time since probably Alberta and I had to remember how to climb and use Gary!! I managed to stay off Hwy 1 until just before the border by going through Whiteshell Provincial Park. Then the Ontario road (Hwy 17 which I will follow for some time now) was good all the way through to Kenora with a nice shoulder and quite a bit of new asphalt. 

But today was still about the people I met and talked to. 

Rennie - a guy from Winnipeg going to Thunder Bay and back on his scooter. He wanted pictures of me and my bike saying crossing Canada was his dream.

Also loved the Rennie sign.

Caddy Lake - a family who were having a picnic with their 88yr old Dad, they had come to the area as kids 40yrs ago. One of the guys seemed somewhat in awe and was trying to subtely take pictures while I was talking (not sure why he didn't just ask for one!!). 

Ontario sign - German couple who are in an RV and left Vancouver roughly the same time as me.

Pinewood Lodge - Arlene who was on her way back to Winnipeg from her cottage in Clearwater Bay. She couldn't believe I was doing it alone (this part seems harder for people to grasp than the actual journey) and wished she was going the other way and could have invited me to her cottage for the night. I gave her my blog address and told her I would post our picture!!

Kenora sits on shores of Lake of the Woods and is very pretty although I was a little put out that the only campground in town charges $30 a site whether you are an RV or small tent, I heard camping in Ontario wasn't cheap!! 

Finally one for my British readers, taken in downtown Kenora. 

To the people of Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba

It has been a roller coaster of emotions over the last few weeks. Again I am so grateful to have been able to stay with some friends I haven't seen in a while. I can't lie the Prairies have been a big challenge, mostly related to the winds. I would definitely rather climb mountains all day than battle headwinds and crosswinds. But I have seen some beautiful landscapes, learnt more about some important Canadian history and although I am not generally a city person enjoyed rest days in Regina and Winnipeg. 

I have met some incredibly kind and generous folks who have bought me dinner, insisted I stay in their homes and picked me up from the side of the road. Also I have met some inspiring travelers on their own amazing journeys by bike and on foot. 

Thanks to all of you who have made the last few weeks special for me.....

Mattson family

Yannick and Erin

Warmshowers hosts Sarah and Gord

Astrid and Eric

Don and Doreen

Bruce and Carol

Dale

Jane and Jared

Sebastien

Thanks also for all the blog comments, emails and texts I have received. You have no idea how much I appreciate them.

And a special thanks at this moment also has to go to Laura. Although I have been riding away from her since I started this journey I feel that our friendship has grown stronger. Every night I try and let her know where I am staying and we regularly exchange texts and emails despite the fact she is incredibly busy this summer. When I left on July 3rd she said to me if anything happened between Campbell River and the Ontario border she would drive out and pick me up, and I knew she would. I am glad I didn't have to make that call but I am so grateful to know she has had my back. Thank you so much Laura. 

18 August - Winnipeg weekend (PHOTOS ADDED).

Winnipeg to Whitemouth 107km (3381km total).

I ended up staying the weekend in Winnipeg. Jane and Jared were so good to me and I really enjoyed the city and their company. We spent quite a bit of time in Assiniboine Park. I attended Sebastien's event on Saturday morning where he spoke about his run across Canada and living with diabetes. Then I went to the Zoo with Jane and her friend Michelle as they had a large new area called 'Journey to Churchill' with polar bears. Michelle had lived in Churchill for a year and it is now on my list of places to live!! 

I also had plenty of time to explore the tourist sites; the Forks, Red River, St Boniface, Exchange etc. And in a perfect Sunday evening I got to have pizza and watch The Princess Bride with Jane, Jared, his Mum and sister. (I will add photos later when I have a better cell signal).

Due to rain this morning I was slow to leave but when I did things felt good, I had put 2 new tires on my bike, replaced a set of brake pads and given it a good clean. Jared, who is a clearly a very accomplished bike mechanic and builds wheels in his spare time also tuned my (new) back wheel, gave me a spoke wrench and a brief lesson on adjusting spokes (he said it was obvious the wheel had been made by a machine!!). With perfect directions to get me out of the city safely and without much traffic I was headed towards Hwy 15.  

Unfortunately the rain clouds hung around and loomed large behind me for much of the day. It's amazing what an impending thunder storm can do for your average speed!! Finally it caught me, the rain was crazy, I could barely see where I was going and the road became a river. There was no cover and no small towns so I had no choice but to push on. I discovered things are not quite as waterproof as they claim (booties and goretex pants). I reached Elma after 95km and sheltered under the porch of the local store whilst drinking the most awful tea. Sadly there was no accommodation in town although one leery old man did suggest I could stay with him, although he said as he was a guy and I was a girl it might be uncomfortable. The locals told me there was camping and a hotel in Whitemouth about 12km north so I headed there.

It was still raining when I arrived and as I couldn't find the campground I asked about rooms at the hotel which reminded me of a British pub. After a number of slightly bizarre questions including; it's just you and just for sleeping she quoted me $30 and I said I would take it, not quite sure what I would be getting!! But the sheets smelt clean, I was out of the rain and she was fine with me putting the bike and trailer in the room, it just about fit. 

Me, Sebastien, Jane and Michelle.

Inside The Forks.

Outside The Forks (on the Red River).

St Boniface Cathedral.

Street art.

15 August - Remembering to enjoy the ride

Portage la Prairie to Winnipeg 106km (3274km total).

I didn't set an alarm but woke up just before 7 feeling much better. After oatmeal at Tim's on the way out of town I quickly passed through the rest of Portage la Prairie. I would be staying with Jane in Winnipeg and her boyfriend Jared had suggested I could take Hwy 26, about 10km longer but keeping me off Hwy 1. I am so incredibly grateful I did. It was a beautiful road with very little traffic. I could have been riding in the Oxfordshire countryside near my parents house or in the rural roads around West Ottawa with my roadie buddy Treena. I remembered that one of the reasons for doing this trip was to see parts of Canada I hadn't. I really was not in a rush to get back to Ottawa. 

There is a lot of history in this area, especially with the Métis struggles and there were lots of roadside plaques and monuments. There were also a number of beautiful small churches. 

St Anne's Church completed in 1864 and one of oldest log churches in continuous use in western Canada.

Inside St Anne's.

Poplar Point rink, built in 1949 when locals decided it would be better to build something for the health of young people than a memorial to the war dead. It is an ambitious example of mid-20th century community arenas in rural Manitoba.

A memorial to Belcourt a priest and missionary who I think I remember reading about in the citizenship study guide.

Assiniboine River.

When the 26 met Hwy 1 again and keen to avoid the stretch going into the city I actually rode west for a couple of km's so I could pick up a smaller road that would take me through Beaudrey Provinical Park. It did turn to gravel for a while but then led me into Headingley, allowing me to follow Roblin Ave to where Jane is living. With a sign reading 32C I did make a quick stop for a cold drink on the way. After 106km and a few days of trying I had finally made it to Winnipeg!! 

Jane had been doing her PhD at the University of Ottawa when I did my post- doc and is a keen cyclist and triathlete. We had lots to catch up on and chatted away in the car whilst she ran some errands. In another coincidence she had a friend in town who is running across Canada from east to west so we picked him up from his hotel for dinner. Sebastian is a type 1 diabetic (Jane's area of research) and has already climbed Everest and completed ironman's and a marathon in the Sahara to raise awareness of diabetes. He was an incredibly down-to-earth guy and had started in Newfoundland in February, running 40km, 5 days a week with his 1 man support crew and doing public speaking and media engagements as he went. There have been a few times when I have thought that traveling by bike, covering 100km a day was exceptionally slow so I have so much respect for this guy. We went to a free outdoor movie night in Assiniboine Park with Skyfall one of the movies, it was a late night but Daniel Craig kept me engaged!!

Outdoor movie night in the park.