The long straight road ahead

Tomorrow I leave Canmore, headed to Cochrane and then the Prairies. I have had such a nice time with Susie and her parents Russell and Marilyn. I stayed an extra day and they have treated me to lots of good food, earl grey tea and conversation as well as letting me wash all my clothes. Sandra and Alan also joined us for dinner on their way back to Ottawa from a road trip up to Alaska. Susie kindly organised a physio appointment and big thanks to Lissa at Rocky Mountain Rehab and Sports Medicine Clinic for working on my neck. My bike got some attention too, the guys at Rebound Cycle gave it a quick look and sold me some new bar tape and isozone padding for the handlebars. Ryan the manager also warned me that there were not many bike shops in the Prairies and gave me his card and said if I needed anything they could ship it!!

I am a little apprehensive about the Prairies, BC exceeded my expectations on so many fronts and I hope the next leg is not too long and lonely. But when I think back to the start of the trip I was pretty terrified about the mountains, I was sure I would be pushing my bike. So many people said I was brave and that they could never do it but to be honest I had no idea I could, I just thought I would regret it if I didn't try. Even if this trip were to end tomorrow I am glad I took the risk. On one of my rest days I read this poem in a book and I have re-read it a few times.

To laugh is to risk appearing the fool.
To weep is to risk appearing sentimental.
To reach for another is to risk involvement.
To expose your ideas, your dreams, before a crowd is to risk their loss.
To love is to risk not being loved in return.
To live is to risk dying.
To believe is to risk despair.
To try is to risk failure.
But risks must be taken, because the greatest hazard in life is to risk nothing.
The people who risk nothing, do nothing, have nothing, are nothing.
They may avoid suffering and sorrow, but they cannot learn, feel, change, grow, love, live.
Chained by their attitudes they are slaves, they have forfeited their freedom.
Only a person who risks is free.
(William Arthur Ward). 

Alan, me, Sandra and Susie.

Downtown Canmore.

Vending machine outside Rebound Cycle.

New bar tape that matches my frame!!

To the people of BC

To the people of BC, you guys are awesome!!
I knew BC was going to be good because of the mountains and scenery but I had no idea that I would get to spend time with such incredible people, half of you I had not even met before my trip started. You were unbelievably kind and generous; welcoming me into your homes, feeding me so well, giving me a shower and bed and most of all great company.


Thank you to each and everyone of you;
Smith Family
Pascale
Penny
Heather
Jen, Jay and Martin
Kevin and Gay
Scott
Joan and Dave
Elaine, Dylan and Mara
Dan and Shelley
Helen and Daniel and extended family
Dave, Louise, Markus, Ivan and Rick
Abi and Gerald.

28 July - An Albertan welcome

Golden to Canmore 167km (1702km total).

Most people ride from Golden to Lake Louise but having spent time there and knowing it would be heaving with tourists I had a more ambitious plan in mind. Susie, a search and rescue and ski patrol buddy from Ottawa had suggested I stay with her parents in Canmore and when I gave her the dates announced she would be in town too. I spoke to her in Revelstoke and she and her parents were very excited for my visit. She proposed meeting just outside Lake Louise for a picnic and then joining me for the last stretch to Canmore.

I left Golden early and although you climb straight out of town I was chilled. It was a really cold morning and the road was in the shade. However I was happy to be on the road before the traffic built up as it winds its way up a narrow canyon. I climbed for a while before it levelled out and the mighty Kicking Horse river kept me company. I entered Yoho National Park and after a few hours dropped down into Field. Susie had decided I would probably be in need of food before the Kicking Horse Pass and they had driven up the road to see if they could see me. As I arrived in Field I found her waving at me on the side of the road. I was so happy, I was indeed starving hungry and I found a table full of food and her excited parents. It was awesome we chatted and had quesadillas (these guys know how to put on a picnic!!). Her Dad offered to take Bob in his truck but we had made it this far and I stubbornly wanted to drag him over the Kicking Horse Pass, the final and highest pass I had to conquer before crossing into Alberta. It had got warm again and the sweat dripped off me as I once again climbed slowly uphill, but Susie had thought of everything and I had also had cold water and salty chips at lunchtime. I thought of the 21 days it has taken me to ride through BC, all the landscapes I have seen, weather I have experienced and most of all people I have met. I feel proud of my efforts and extremely fortunate that I have the time and health to be able to do this ride.

I was disappointed that there was no summit sign at the top of the Kicking Horse Pass (1647m) but I saw some motorcyclists stopped by a stunning blue lake and took some photos there. Sadly there was also no Alberta sign as I dropped down, just a welcome to BC sign on the other sign of the now divided highway. The highway on the Alberta sign seemed new and had a big shoulder, suddenly I looked down and realised Bob and I were going 50km/hr, I think he might have been happy to see the back of the big mountains. It didn't take long to hit Lake Louise where I stopped for a quick photo, I have taken a job with a dog sledding company called Kingmik and this area will be my office this winter!

I followed the signs for the Bow Valley Parkway and headed to meet Susie and her parents at the first picnic area. They had more tasty treats for me, cookies and pineapple and it was so good. I had done 87km and there was another 80km to go to Canmore, although I did not want to give Bob up I decided to take up her parents kind offer of support and offloaded my bag into the back of their truck. It felt pretty damn amazing to have an all but empty Bob and Susie and I spun along the quiet and pretty Bow Valley Parkway. Susie had really wanted to ride this road which is the old highway and we chattered away stopping for an ice tea and sandwiches she had sensibly decided to bring (with an ice pack to keep them cool) so at least Bob had something to carry! We stayed off the main highway by taking the Legacy Trail and decided to do ice cream in Banff. Summer evenings in downtown Banff are craaaazzzyyy but the ice cream was good and we only had 20km left. I wasn't sure how my legs were still going, I definitely could not have made it with my bag on my own. The legacy trail is awesome and we watched the evening light change over the mountains as we arrived in Canmore. I am not sure what time it was but it was getting dark and my bike computer said I had been in the saddle for over 9 hours, 167km in total. Her parents were pretty glad to see us and cooked up some pork chops on the BBQ followed by cake and ice cream. An awesome end to an epic day.

Cold climb out of Golden.

Mattson family picnic in Field.

Summit of Kicking Horse Pass (1647m).

Welcome to BC sign.

View up to Mt Temple overlooking Lake Louise.

Legacy Trail beside Vermillion Lakes.

Susie on Banff Ave, Banff.

Evening light on the mountains as we eventually approach Canmore.

27 July - Loving the mountains

Rogers Pass to Golden 86km (1535km total).

I had taken a day off at Rogers Pass as I knew Ivan and Rick (more ACC friends) were not arriving until Sunday evening. In a way it was a great spot for a day off, I napped, stretched, cleaned my bike, read some outdoor magazines and got out the maps for the rest of my trip. Unfortunately with no power or cell service catching up with the blog was not an option hence why these posts are a little late!! I ate a bunch of food I have been carrying around for the last few weeks as I was starving and was incredibly glad when Ivan and Rick showed up with dinner. It was great to catch up with them too. 

(Ivan and Rick meet Bob at the ACC Wheeler Hut, Rogers Pass).

It was a short ride to the summit of Rogers Pass on a crisp, clear morning. It is a stunning spot and I spent some time reading the information boards etc. I was pretty surprised to read the highway was only opened here in September 1962. Then it was downhill and more avalanche tunnels, one of which was not lit and was rather sketchy as I could not really see what I was riding over!! I was glad it was early and the traffic quiet. I wish I could report it was downhill all the way into Golden but of course it wasn't, however the scenery was stunning and as I will be leaving BC shortly I could not help but marvel at the mountains and smile. I love the mountains, even when I have to climb up them on a bike.

(Inside an avalanche tunnel near Rogers Pass).

The Columbia River is also spectacular and I learnt that the river valley that bears its name (sitting between the Rocky and Purcell mountain ranges) is an internationally important wetland area. During the trip I have stopped at pretty much every roadside information board and I have learnt all sorts of interesting facts. I also lost an hour today and there was a sign but it was on the other side of the road on an uphill so I didn't stop for a photo!! As I got closer to Golden I could see the slopes of Kicking Horse Mountain probably my favorite ski resort. I had decided to stay at the Dreamcatcher hostel in Golden because I had stayed there before and it still rates as my favourite hostel in Canada, partly because of the 2 wonderfully friends dogs but also the Canadian / British couple who own it. You really feel like you are staying in their house.

After a quick shower (it had been a few days as the Rogers Pass hut doesn't have running water either!!) I headed across the road to the grocery store. I was super hungry and trying to figure out how much food I would need for the next day when I heard my name down the aisle. I looked up to see Cat a mountain biking friend from Ottawa pushing a cart towards me!! Neither of us could believe it, I knew she was visiting Scott in Rossland and she knew I was cycling across Canada but what are the chances of us meeting in a small grocery store in Golden. She could not believe it but I have had some crazy luck and coincidences on this trip so I guess I was not so surprised. She invited me back to her motel for dinner with her kids (Gabrielle and Alex). They are on a western Canada road trip with lots of mountain biking so we ate lots of pasta and poured over maps.

(Gabrielle, Alex and Cat in Golden).

When I got back to the hostel the owners Abi and Gerald were back and Abi recognised me. She couldn't believe it was my bike and Bob trailer in the garage and was excited to hear about my trip. I needed to get up early in the morning and although I had good intentions to update the blog this evening the time had disappeared. So after petting the dogs for a bit I headed to bed.

25 July - Smashing the 100km barrier

Halcyon Hot Springs to Rogers Pass 133km (1449km).

It wasn't raining when I woke up which was a good sign. Today I was on a mission as I had some friends staying at the Alpine Club of Canada hut at Rogers Pass. They had invited me for dinner before they headed up into the mountains to camp. I was going to have to cover 130km to get there and I hadn't broken the 100km barrier yet!!

(Early morning shot of the hot springs).

I left early with plenty of time to make the 15km ride to the ferry which runs once an hour. However of course it was uphill and after 7km of climbing I was convinced there was no way I was going to make it. But then the road started heading down and I decided to go for it, it was 7am on a Friday morning on a very quiet road so I made the most of it and took the racing line around the corners, I am sure I heard Bob squealing with excitement!! Unbelievably we made it and I am sure the ferry was moving before I had the chance to unclip my shoes and stand Bob and the bike up. I was freezing cold and started putting on my goretex when a lady came over and asked about my trip, she had seen me up the road and was surprised I had made it in time!! 

The 50km ride to Revelstoke along the 23 was sooooo quiet, literally there was a short burst of traffic every hour as vehicles came up from the ferry and made their way down. The clouds were still hanging around, and at times quite low on the mountains but I was pretty sure the rain was going to hold out as I made my way along the shore of Upper Arrow Lake. 

(Blanket Creek).

I clearly was not ready for Friday lunchtime in Revelstoke where I joined Highway 1, the main Trans Canada route for the first time. I headed for Tim Hortons to load up on chilli and check my email etc. The place was a complete zoo and it took me 10 minutes to make it across the road. I ate as much as I could, made a couple of quick calls, and checked the route to Rogers Pass, 65km and lots of up. I texted my friends at Rogers Pass to let them know I was on my way as I knew I would lose cell service pretty quickly (Telus is really the only network of any use in BC!!).

Although there was a shoulder the highway was exceptionally noisy due to the steady stream of 2 lanes of traffic beside me, to be honest it wasn't much fun and I am even more grateful that I took the less travelled route through BC. I climbed steadily into the mountains through Mount Revelstoke National Park, past Canyon Hotsprings and into Glacier National Park. The mountains got bigger and the road kept going up and I had to stop quite a few times to snack as I passed the 100km mark. I have been to the Rogers Pass area a few times and was sure I could recognise the peaks on either side of the road, but still no sign of the turnoff. Then I saw some avalanche tunnels (I wasn't expecting them until the other side of Rogers Pass) but they were not nearly as scary as others had suggested. I was pretty exhausted and it started drizzling with rain, but then there was a rainbow and shortly afterwards I turned off the highway, passed through the Illecillewaet campground and pushed my bike up the dirt track to the hut, it was gone 7pm, I had been on the road for over 12 hours, covered 133km but I had made it. It was so good to see Dave, Louise and Markus, and Dave had I am sure cooked an extra 2 servings of pasta for me. I ate, we talked and life was good, really good.

(Avalanche tunnels on Trans Canada Hwy).

(The ACC guys and gals heading up to Hermit Meadows high camp the next morning).

Quick update

Just a quick update to say all is good. I have had a few worried emails so I guess some people are indeed reading this and I am sorry to have left you hanging after my sad, wet day a few days ago!! 

What followed was an epic 133km day to get to the Alpine Club of Canada hut at Rogers Pass for a free dinner and bed for the night, as well as the company of some old ACC friends who were in the area mountaineering. Then I took a rest day because some more were arriving, but as there was no power or cell phone coverage I could not catch up with my blog. Today I made it to Golden but I lost an hour on the way, bumped into a good friend from Ottawa in the local grocery store and got invited for dinner with her and her kids. Then I had decided to stay at the Dreamcatcher Hostel as it is my favorite hostel in Canada and the owners remembered me from a winter ago when I was here so we chatted and now it is 11:30 and I was planning to get up early tomorrow for my last day in BC. More to follow soon and thanks for reading.

24 July - A change in the weather

Hills to Halcyon Hot Springs 68km (1316km total).

It rained most of the night and was still going strong this morning. Helen and Daniel very kindly said I was welcome to stay as long as I wanted. After some great pancakes with homemade strawberry syrup and a few cups of tea I used the time to check out my back tire which had not been holding its pressure for a couple of days. When I put it in a bowl of water I found a small leak and 5 year old Shia helped to put a 'band aid' over the hole. Although I could quite happily have stayed another night when the rain eased up a little late morning I decided to set off in my rain gear. 

I have to be honest it was not a fun day. It rained constantly and it was quite chilly (around 14C). My legs ached everytime I had to go uphill and I got frustrated at the constantly 'rolling' roads. I really, really want a flat piece of road, just for a few kilometres but it doesn't seem to exist in BC. I thought about sticking my thumb out as I rode along, so many trucks passed me and Bob and my bike could easily have fitted in the back, but I didn't. I have had a pain in my neck since before the rest day in Rossland and it has got steadily worse and I haven't figured out a way to ease or stretch it. I don't know what I am going to do about it as it is really starting to reduce the enjoyment of riding. When the weather is bad everything else seems worse. 

I stopped in Nakusp to find a hot drink and warm up and for half an hour the unpleasantness was forgotten. I also found British McVities Chocolate Digestives in the little local grocery store and decided that with the colder temps would not melt. I wasn't sure how far I was going to get today and when I asked the lady in the Visitor Centre how far to the ferry she said 30mins by car, and then suggested that would probably by 45mins by bike!!! It is 50km, so yes 30mins by car but by bike pulling a trailer more like 2.5hrs. I smiled and thanked her for the advice whilst secretly screaming at her. As I pedaled on in the rain I have to admit to shedding a few tears of frustration, this can be such a slow and painful way of covering such insignificant distances and gradients achieved in a car. 

I stopped at a rest area by the side of the road to have a snack and huddled under a tree for shelter. There was a couple there and he came over to ask me where I was going. He asked me if I had won the lottery so I had the time to do this, I laughed and suggested if I had won the lottery I would definitely be using a different mode of transport!! He shouted at his wife "Hey Karen this lady is cycling to Ottawa!!". After fiddling in the car she came over and gave me a 4 leaf clover and wished me luck. I was genuinely touched and thanked her before they got back in the car and sped off.

After 68km I hit Halcyon Hot Springs, realistically my last non-camping option before Revelstoke. I couldn't bear the thought of camping in the rain with wet gear and remembered reading they had cabins. When they offered me a little cabin for $75 I was so happy. I managed to fit the bike and trailer inside too and after soaking in the hot springs to warm up I cranked the heat to 25C and set about trying to dry everything. It is amazing how dirty a bike can get in the rain and it took quite some time to wipe everything down and lube the chain etc.

23 July - Valley of the Ghosts

Kaslo to Hills 66km (1248km total).

I had some precious extra time with Dan and Shelley this morning as we enjoyed breakfast on their deck before they had to leave for a work party on their local trails. They told me not to rush off and that today's ride would be a good one. I really wanted to try and get up to date on the blog so sat on their deck to finish a post I had started the night before. I have been thinking I should put together a coffee table book on the best deck views in Canada.

Sharing an awesome breakfast with Dan and Shelley.

View from their deck.

Although the forecast was for rain I set off in glorious sunshine along the quiet road to New Denver. There was not much of a shoulder but so little traffic it didn't matter. The Kaslo River ran beside the road and was beautiful. It was a gradual uphill for most of the way. I am really glad that Dan had told me a bit of the history of the area and given me a book, 'The Valley of the Ghosts' to browse before bed because it was hard to see many of the old ruins. It has to rate as one of the most scenic roads I have been on so far, I would had taken more pictures but the downhill section (when there were snow capped mountains in the background) was fast and windy and I didn't think it was particularly safe to stop and take pictures.

Fish Lake (iPhone camera does not do this view justice!!).

I made a brief stop in New Denver before continuing on. The clouds had been gathering all afternoon and although I was hoping to push on to Nakusp I had been in touch with a warmshowers host 16km north of New Denver in Hills.

As I turned off the main road in Hills it started to rain and by the time I made it the few hundred meters to the end of the road and Daniel and Helen's house it was raining quite heavily. As I wheeled my bike into their garage thunder and lightening rumbled and crackled overhead. They welcomed me in with open arms and I was quickly introduced to 3 generations of the family including their son Otis and new grand daughter Isis. The heavens had well and truly opened and it was an easy decision to stay. I chatted to Helen while she cooked up some dinner, she and Daniel have done a number of bike tours and she had just come back from a month riding in the UK. There were 8 of us around the table for dinner but Helen didn't seem to mind as she prepared the meal on a fabulous old wood burning stove / oven. 

As there was still thunder and lighting as well as heavy rain they found a spot for me inside and when I went to get a few things from my trailer I realized Bob and the bike would have their own company for the night.

22 July - Kootenay Kindness

Nelson to Kaslo 70km (1182km total).

My route would hug the shoreline of Kootenay Lake all day. I pedaled along taking in the scenery and enjoying the colorful wild flowers by the side of the road. My first stop was in Balfour where there is a free ferry to take you over the lake and I spotted a little bakery. I had an amazing London Fog (earl grey tea with a shot of vanilla and frothy milk), I have been finding them quite popular out here. As I continued on the weather was quite overcast and there was rain in the forecast. It was also pretty blustery down by the lake. As I had plenty of time and my legs were pretty tired I decided to stop at Ainsworth Hot Springs (Elaine and Dylan had recommended them). My timing could not have been more perfect as the rain started while I was soaking in the hot springs. They had 3 pools, one at 40C which went through a small cave you could wade/swim through and it felt so unbelievably good. I was probably there for almost 2 hours before it really started to get busy and I thought I should finish the last 22km into Kaslo. 

I dropped off my bag at Dan and Shelley's place before the road dropped down into Kaslo. They were away paddling but had agreed to let me camp in their backyard. I was glad I had left the bag when I flew downhill into Kaslo knowing I would have to get back up there after some dinner!! I have to say the ride had been more 'rolling' than I had expected today and I was worried for the climb over to New Denver tomorrow. I checked out the lake front, historic SS Moyie and Front St with many period buildings. It is an incredibly picturesque spot. Dan and Shelley had recommended the Bluebell Bistro so I went there for dinner and was able to charge my phone and use wifi. When I asked if they had tea the waiter asked me where I was from and told me his mother was from Wales. I struggled to order as while he was getting the tea a couple came over, they had seen me in Balfour and were interested in what I was up to!!! I had an incredibly filling burger and had to sit and drink a bit more tea as I worried I would not make it back up the hill until I had digested it a bit!! 

By the time I got back to Dan and Shelley's it was getting dark and I was looking at where to put my tent when much to my surprise they showed up. It had been very windy on the lake and they had decided not to stay out overnight. They quickly ushered me inside and showed me to the guest bedroom (apparently bears use their garden as a pathway between the river below and hills behind and there had been one in the garden just a couple of days before!!!). They were so welcoming and really wanted to hear about my trip (Dan had done his own epic bike trip from Scotland to Israel in his youth!!) so we chatted over a cup of tea. They told me a bit about the history of the area and the road I will take tomorrow. 

I really cannot believe the kindness I have received from people in the Kootenay's. For the second night in a row I had shown up on someone's doorstep and been invited in with such warmth and generosity. I cannot thank people enough and thank you just doesn't seem enough, these chance encounters with such wonderful people have made my trip so far even more special. 

Beautiful wild flowers by the roadside.

SS Moyie in Kaslo.

21 July - Feeling like Clara Hughes

Rossland to Nelson 92km (1112km total).

I woke to the smell of bacon and had the luxury of a morning shower while Scott took a quick look at my bike. The plan was to ride down to Trail to meet Joan and so with Lisa and Tom waving us off we were on our way. A very short time later (and with 9km racked up in the blink of an eye) we hit Trail. Scott and Joan shepherded me down the road to Castlegar, riding in front to break the wind and set the pace, pointing out the rumble strips and debris on the road. It was a beautiful day as we rolled up and down beside the Columbia River. I felt like Clara Hughes (she recently completed a big ride across Canada) with my own personal escort and was sad when they had to turn back, but not before they had led me to a side road to avoid the highway to Nelson.

Bikes on Scott's deck ready to go.

Lisa and Tom waving us off (you might have to zoom in to see them!!).

Joan and Scott my awesome support crew, I wish you guys could ride across Canada with me!!

The second half of the day was considerably slower but very scenic on a quiet road and Joan had recommended a cafe for me to stop at. I got into Nelson and headed to Elaine's place where I left my trailer and went back to check out the historic downtown, the old tram and beautiful river pathway and parks. Nelson is a funky place with an alternative vibe nestled into the hillside on Kootenay Lake. 

Park on the shore of the lake with the coolest outdoor gym.

I spent a wonderful evening with Elaine, her son Dylan and his girlfriend Mara. Elaine cooked lots of pasta followed by homemade ice cream and we talked and played card games until late. They were so friendly and had lots of questions about my trip. Again I was spoilt with a shower and comfortable bed. The inevitable where are you headed to next came up and before I knew it Elaine was calling her friends in Kaslo to see if they would put me up for the night!!

The day before

I took a rest day on the Sunday in Rossland. Scott cooked bacon and eggs, I did a load of laundry and sat on his deck with stunning views of the mountains and updated my blog. It was perfect. In the afternoon I got introduced to one of the favorite summer sports in this area, huckleberry picking!! We went with his friends Joan and Dave to a secret location armed with a 4 litre pail each, I got the impression we would not be leaving until they were all full!! We found some great spots and picked the little berries that look like a blueberry with a sharper taste. Less than 2 hours later and with 20 liters of berries between 5 of us we headed back to Joan and Dave's place where she whipped up a rhubarb and huckleberry crisp which was soooo good. Her and Scott hatched a plan to ride out with me the next day, they are road bikers which is unusual in these parts where mountain biking is the thing to do. Indeed Scott was expecting his friends Lisa and Tom later that evening for a week of mountain biking. Joan asked if I had a place to stay in Nelson, knowing there are plenty of campgrounds around I have not been booking anything, so she insisted on calling a friend who might be able to give me a bed for the night and so over the phone I met Elaine and got directions to her house in Nelson!! We arrived back at Scott's place in time to see Lisa and Tom and chatted on the deck until it got dark.

Rossland.

19 July - Almost a pass too far

Christina Lake to Rossland 76km (1020km total).

I climbed slowly out of Christina Lake knowing Paulsen summit at 1535m was going to be the highest so far on my trip and would not arrive for 30km. I had been assured it was a gentle slope the whole way and nowhere near as bad as some of the passes I had already tackled (you would have thought by now I would have learnt not to rely on advice from non-cyclists!!). 

(Christina Lake)

In the last 4 days I had been over a summit a day (Sunday, Richter, Anarchist and Eholt). I knew I needed a rest day but was determined to get to Rossland to stay with Scott, a guy I know from mountain biking and working at Bushtukah (Ottawa outdoor store). 

They were early signs it was going to be a hard day, at one point I was having to pedal quite hard on what I perceived to be a flat if not slightly downhill stretch. I stopped and checked my tires were still well inflated and my brakes weren't rubbing. I did this a few times, confused as to why it was such hard work. Finally I looked back down the road and realised I was going uphill!! It was a cooler day slightly overcast day but with much higher humidity. I passed the sign below.

There were also signs for construction as they were repaving the road and I was thoroughly enjoying the new asphalt that had already been laid. The road was sufficiently quiet that I rode in the lane as the shoulder was gravel and signed as soft. I caught up with the construction and got to the front of the line, the lady with the stop sign came over and said I had 2 options, ride the gravel shoulder or get a ride in a truck. When I asked how far she said 2km, I told her I would take the shoulder and off I went. It was unbelievably slow dragging Bob through gravel that was barely packed down, I was grateful for my bike handling skills as Bob and I fishtailed around!! Needless to say I was incredibly grateful when it ended although another workman kindly told me it was about to get a whole lot steeper!! I crossed the Paulsen bridge and sadly he was right!!

(Paulsen bridge).

Some time passed before this sign on the other side of the road for those going down what I came up and then the summit sign.

I have to say I thought that was my hard work for the day done, I was pretty sure it would be downhill into Rossland. I had to stop and put a jacket on as I was getting seriously cold on the downhill (partly because it was much cooler at 1500m and partly because I was so sweaty from the humidity). I said goodbye to Hwy 3 which I had been on since Hope and turned on to the 3B. Suddenly I saw another sign on the side of the road, forgive me for not stopping for a picture but imagine the Bonanza Pass one above saying 'Strawberry Pass 1575m, expect sudden weather changes for next 29km'. I couldn't believe it, how could I have missed this, I was honestly exhausted, my legs had been heavy most of the day and I did not know how I was going to make the next 29km into Rossland (I have to admit I checked to see if I had cell service but I didn't so Gary and I crawled uphill). After about 5km I saw someone/something on the side of the road, I really hoped it wasn't a bear, this road was isolated and I was in no position to put up a fight!! When I got there it was a cyclist and I stopped to ask  if she was okay, she had a new bike and was playing with her seat height. I asked her how long the climb was and she said I had about another 5km and then assured me it was downhill into Rossland. With renewed hope I might make it I set off again, I did not have the energy to stop and get out my phone for another summit picture (to be honest I did not realise Nancy Greene Summit was higher than Paulsen otherwise I would have). It was pretty much downhill for the next 20km and a nice flowy grade into Rossland, at some point I passed 1000km for the trip so far.

I was so happy to reach Rossland and stopped at the first bench that I came to. I didn't move much for the next hour or so waiting for Scott to finish work. Rossland has a historic downtown and is nestled into the mountainside at 1000m. I figured I would check out the town tomorrow. It was awesome to see Scott, he moved here from Kanata 2 years ago. He cooked steak for dinner and encouraged me to eat lots and we sat and chatted on his deck, well to be honest I felt like I did all the talking. I apologized as I had not had much company the last few days. 

18 July - The perfect downhill

Midway to Christina Lake 82km (944km total).

The ride from Midway was pleasant, rolling with more farmland, I even saw sheep (which I rarely seem to see in Canada) and alpacas or llamas (is there a difference??). There is a lot of mining history in the area and I stopped to read various plaques. By the time I got to Greenwood, booming in the early 1900's and now Canada's smallest city I was hungry despite being on the bike less than an hour!! I found a cute cafe in the historic downtown and spent way too long there due to free wifi, a power outlet to charge my phone and a very good London Fog, or Earl of Fog as it is known in Greenwood. 

I knew there was a climb out of Greenwood before a descent into Grand Forks. I enjoyed the cooler temps, breeze and trees again after the desert landscape around Osoyoos. I barely noticed the sign for Eholt summit (it was on the other side of the road) and at a mere 1028m I didn't bother stopping for a picture!! 

The descent towards Grand Forks was pretty much the perfect grade for Bob and I. Between 30 and 40 kmh I don't have to brake and we coast comfortably smiling at the free kilometres. Above that, or with crosswinds things become a little less comfortable. I play a game with myself as I guess the speed before looking down to check on my bike computer and I am getting pretty good. 

Grand Forks was okay, I stopped for some lunch and supplies. They had a reasonable size grocery store that was somewhat overwhelming. I noticed a rash on my arms over the last 24hrs, it is not particulary bothersome or unsightly just raised slightly red lumps, I figured it was from the heat, even the nighttime temps have been warm in a tent and I didn't have a shower last night as it was coin operated and I had no coins!! I asked the pharmacist for his opinion, he seemed to agree and asked if I had been exerting myself in the heat!! I didn't want to explain and turned down his offer of cream, I will keep an eye on it. 

I wanted to get to Christina Lake so as to keep my next day into Rossland as reasonable as possible. I will be climbing over my highest summit to date and ticking over the 1000km mark. It is a popular spot, apparently the lake is one of the warmest in Canada and arriving on a Friday afternoon in July without a reservation for the night was not such a smart idea. Fortunately I stopped at Park Lane Resort and the very friendly owners Wendy and Pete found me a spot as well as giving me some info on the pass tomorrow (apparently nowhere near as bad as Anarchist) and checked the weather for me. It's been another good day and I am really enjoying this bike touring business!!