22 July - Kootenay Kindness

Nelson to Kaslo 70km (1182km total).

My route would hug the shoreline of Kootenay Lake all day. I pedaled along taking in the scenery and enjoying the colorful wild flowers by the side of the road. My first stop was in Balfour where there is a free ferry to take you over the lake and I spotted a little bakery. I had an amazing London Fog (earl grey tea with a shot of vanilla and frothy milk), I have been finding them quite popular out here. As I continued on the weather was quite overcast and there was rain in the forecast. It was also pretty blustery down by the lake. As I had plenty of time and my legs were pretty tired I decided to stop at Ainsworth Hot Springs (Elaine and Dylan had recommended them). My timing could not have been more perfect as the rain started while I was soaking in the hot springs. They had 3 pools, one at 40C which went through a small cave you could wade/swim through and it felt so unbelievably good. I was probably there for almost 2 hours before it really started to get busy and I thought I should finish the last 22km into Kaslo. 

I dropped off my bag at Dan and Shelley's place before the road dropped down into Kaslo. They were away paddling but had agreed to let me camp in their backyard. I was glad I had left the bag when I flew downhill into Kaslo knowing I would have to get back up there after some dinner!! I have to say the ride had been more 'rolling' than I had expected today and I was worried for the climb over to New Denver tomorrow. I checked out the lake front, historic SS Moyie and Front St with many period buildings. It is an incredibly picturesque spot. Dan and Shelley had recommended the Bluebell Bistro so I went there for dinner and was able to charge my phone and use wifi. When I asked if they had tea the waiter asked me where I was from and told me his mother was from Wales. I struggled to order as while he was getting the tea a couple came over, they had seen me in Balfour and were interested in what I was up to!!! I had an incredibly filling burger and had to sit and drink a bit more tea as I worried I would not make it back up the hill until I had digested it a bit!! 

By the time I got back to Dan and Shelley's it was getting dark and I was looking at where to put my tent when much to my surprise they showed up. It had been very windy on the lake and they had decided not to stay out overnight. They quickly ushered me inside and showed me to the guest bedroom (apparently bears use their garden as a pathway between the river below and hills behind and there had been one in the garden just a couple of days before!!!). They were so welcoming and really wanted to hear about my trip (Dan had done his own epic bike trip from Scotland to Israel in his youth!!) so we chatted over a cup of tea. They told me a bit about the history of the area and the road I will take tomorrow. 

I really cannot believe the kindness I have received from people in the Kootenay's. For the second night in a row I had shown up on someone's doorstep and been invited in with such warmth and generosity. I cannot thank people enough and thank you just doesn't seem enough, these chance encounters with such wonderful people have made my trip so far even more special. 

Beautiful wild flowers by the roadside.

SS Moyie in Kaslo.