30 September - Just in case you thought this was easy

Campbellton to Dalhousie 33km (6901km total).

Jan made some really good porridge for breakfast, when you have been living on the instant stuff with water you forget how good it can really be with decent oats and milk!! The weather was cold and wet but it was supposed to clear so I layered up and put on booties and goretex. 

It was an incredibly uninspiring day, I could not see anything due to the low cloud and the temperature was hovering around 5-7C. I headed off on the 134 by the coast but it was so wet and windy that I cut inland to the main highway in the hope of less wind. Now it was as windy but visibility was probably worse because of the spray from all the vehicles. I was on the shoulder with all my lights on and I just hoped drivers would see me. It was really slow going and incredibly wet and definitely did not look like it was going to clear up. If I stayed inland on the 11 there was not going to be a whole lot of bail out options before Bathurst and as I was already feeling chilled I was not sure I would make the next 80km. The conditions were really less than ideal to be on a bike for hours so I figured I had 2 options; hitch a ride or bail while I still might be able to find somewhere dry for the night. I bailed, headed into Dalhousie and found a motel, there was not a lot of choice, the town seemed quite run down and I paid more than I wanted to but there we go.

I had only made 33km my shortest and probably most pathetic day of the entire trip but it is almost October and the weather could have been like this earlier. I spent a good hour wiping down Bob and my bike before watching some TV and calling my parents.

29 September - Au Revoir Quebec

Amqui to Campellton 102km (6868km total).

Today was my last day in Quebec and I had started seeing 'Nouveau-Brunswick' on the road signs. I wasn't far out of Amqui when I saw the sign below moving on the shoulder!! I pulled up and met Reinaldo from Chile, an incredibly happy, smiley guy. He is walking but started around the same time I did and although he does not 'hitch-hike' he clearly accepts rides when people stop. He asked me if I thought it was going to rain, there had been a massive temperature swing overnight, going from probably 25C yesterday to maybe 5C now, I was quite bundled up and wearing my pink lenses to combat the grey overcast skies.

Reinaldo.

Reinaldo.

I stopped in Causapscal which clearly has significant history around salmon ad salmon fishing but the tourist info and historic site were closed. There were a couple of fishermen in the river and as I followed the river during the day I saw a few more. I assume it is also moose hunting season as a truck passed me with a large moose strapped to it, it's legs and backside hanging over the end and I also saw a guy with a load of wood and a moose head proudly lashed on top, clearly his trophy!!

Salmon statue in Causapscal.

It was an awesome ride through the Matapedia valley, the fall colours were spectacular, my pictures do not do it justice because my phone cannot seem to deal with the flat light of the cloudy skies. At one point a car pulled up beside me and I heard my name, it was Reinaldo, being whisked along but he stopped and asked if I had enough water.

I love the fall colours and was really glad that my parents came out to Canada last fall and got to see the scenery at this time of year. The road followed the Matapedia River all the way to the border. There was a beautiful red covered bridge at Routhierville, also built in 1931 the same as Amqui, it must have been a busy year for bridge building!!

Covered bridge at Routhierville.

Matapedia River.

Matapedia River.

Eventually I arrived in Matapedia and crossed the Restigouche river into New Brunswick following the road to Campbellton. I would be staying with another Warmshowers host Jan but he was working until 8pm so I went to find some food. Jan was another wonderful host, a very modest, humble guy who was easy to chat with. Phil had stayed with him during his trip and told me he had represented Ireland at cross country skiing at the recent Sochi Olympics but Jan played it down!! 

Welcome to New Brunswick!!

28 September - Sad to leave the St Lawrence

Rimouski to Amqui 110km (6766km total).

I found Phil through Warmshowers and although he was working until midnight he insisted I pitch my tent in his backyard in Rimouski. When I arrived at his place his roommate Rafael said I was welcome to sleep outside or in the spare room so I spent the night inside. In the morning Phil graciously got up for breakfast and I could have chatted with him all day!! He is recently back from his first cycle tour around Quebec and the Maritimes and it was great to compare our experiences on the road.

Phil, fellow cyclist and Warmshowers host.

As it was a Sunday the pathways beside the water around Rimouski were busy with runners and bikers. It smells and feels like being beside the sea at this stage and the tide was quite far out. There were also endless flocks of geese that Phil explained rest on the tidal flats during their migration. The first 30km I hugged the shoreline on La Route Verte stopping briefly at Sainte-Luce to check out the church set on a point jutting into the river. There was a sign saying it was open so I went inside, it was quite beautiful. When I got back outside my bike was struggling to stay upright with the gusts of wind.

Church at Sainte-Luce.

Inside church at Sainte-Luce.

At Sainte-Flavie I was going to be heading inland and over to New Brunswick but I took some time to sit on a pier, have something to eat and soak up the scenery. It was sunny and blustery and there were a couple of kite surfers having a lot of fun!! I was sad to be leaving the St Lawrence, I would love to have continued on around the Gaspe peninsula but I will have to save that for another time.

Kite surfers at Sainte-Flavie.

Sainte-Flavie.

The 132 climbed inland through Mont-Joli and Sainte-Angele-de-Merici. Without the sea breeze it was a hot day and I was sweating as I cycled slowly up the hills. I could feel the strain in my Achilles which had been doing so well on the flatter terrain. There were lots of people out in their convertibles no doubt enjoying the amazing weather but as the afternoon progressed the cloud was building. I rode beside Lac Matapedia for the last stretch into Amqui which was a cute little town with a couple of wooden bridges.

Cemetery, Lac Matapedia.

Lac Matapedia.

Covered bridge (built 1931).

27 September - I've come a long way!!!

Rivière-du-Loup to Rimouski 111km (6656km total).

I delayed leaving the hostel this morning as I had some stomach issues. I think I may have overdone the baked beans yesterday after having them for lunch and dinner!! I noticed a map of Canada in the lounge and as I traced my route from Vancouver Island I realised just how far I have come!!

Back in Rossland, BC (on July 20th!!) one of Scott's friends who had cycled across Canada said it was life changing. I remember thinking that sounded a bit dramatic, I was just planning to ride my bike for a few weeks!! Now I realise it probably has changed me. I have learnt to be more patient (you cannot go anywhere fast on a bike towing a trailer), to be kinder to myself and that I have deeper reserves of inner strength, stubbornness and determination than I ever knew. 

Most surprising for me has been the people part of this trip. Being a pretty private person who takes their time to get to know / trust people and finds it hard to share feelings and emotions I have been blown away with the kindness of strangers and how comfortable I have become at sharing my story with others. Never having been in the 'cool' crowd I was a little uneasy with the attention that my bike and Bob seemed to attract at the beginning. But I have discovered that relationships however brief are what make us uniquely human and sharing possessions, stories, hopes and dreams is immensely rewarding. (At some point I will probably shudder reading some of the things I have shared in this blog!!).

I really hope this does not need a caption, even for the non-Canadians!!

L'Auberge International Rivière-du-Loup.

I managed to ride the 27km to L'Isle-Verte without stopping for a photo, although this is now a trickier proposition as I had to remove the stand from Bob last night. The angle at which it held the trailer had been widening for a while and it finally gave way yesterday. I don't know if it is the extra weight, I did add more than I took out in Ottawa due to the colder weather but the last few days I have been in just bike shorts and one layer on top so the extra layers, gloves and thermos have all been jammed into the trailer. 

L'Isle-Verte was a fascinating spot with a lot of history and bilingual signs. I learnt that in the 1880's sea moss was big business here, harvested from the tidal flats and used locally for stuffing mattresses and shipped to the US for stuffing car seats!! The Bertrand family owned a lot of the town and of course had a big house, according to the plaque outside "the elegant residence is an outstanding example of Québécois architecture inspired by the neo-classical style and reflecting French, British and American influences".

Betrand house, L'Isle-Verte.

I stuck to the 132 so I could find washrooms for my still slightly unhappy insides and the road stayed more inland than previous days. I considered detouring into Parc du Bic but as it was 4pm and the trail would have been gravel I decided it was a little late to be having an off-road adventure with only a couple of hours of light left!! I still got some good views from the road and I arrived in Rimouski in time to see the sunset.

Parc du Bic.

Parc du Bic.

Slightly bizarre sign heading into Rimouski.

Watching the sunset (with a little shorebird). It did get better but my phone decided it did not have any more storage space. At least it is taking decent pictures again though, I guess it is just not too keen on damp, grey, overcast days (much like myself).

Finally I have to mention the heart symbol that I seem to have been following for a while. I first noticed it on the road near Brownsburg-Chatham a week ago. I wonder if they are from a charity ride? I keep expecting to lose them but I haven't yet which I fine because they do make me smile!

'Follow your heart' ??

26 September - Nowhere I would rather be

L'Islet to Rivière-du-Loup 114km (6545km total).

It was another beautiful day, the scenery, the weather and the roads. To be honest there was nowhere I would rather have been. There were a few reasons I wanted to continue this bike ride to the east coast, mostly because I was not ready for it to end, I really enjoy the freedom, the adventure of visiting new places and the time spent alone. It has given me precious time to reflect, ponder, and dream. I had previously tried mindfulness, meditation, to 'be in the moment' but nothing compares to spending 12 weeks alone on a bike!! I am so grateful to have had the time and space to do this. I still meet people and have conversations but they are not as detailed due to the language. The weather has enabled me to camp and I have really enjoyed staying in the Quebec youth hostels where you always meet fellow travelers, no cyclists but people from all over the world who have a wanderlust too.

Today's route took me through the artsy town of Saint-Jean-Port-Joli with a stunning red roofed church then Saint-Roch-des-Aulnaies with another magnificent church. Just down the road there was a viewpoint down a gravel road with amazing views of the river and back to the church. Although I could not understand them all, there were information signs explaining (I think) about the birds, tides and fresh water / salt water mixing in this area. 

River running into the St Lawrence.

Church at Saint-Roch-des-Aulnaies from down by the River.

I was again following the 132 and La Route Verte which often sent me off the 132 in the small towns and down little windy back roads. A few friends have roots in this area and I was especially excited for Kamouraska. 

Small, windy back roads.

Rocky shoreline of St Lawrence at St Denis-sur-Mer.

Church at St Denis.

Kamouraska was beautiful, colorful little houses with exceedingly well tended gardens. It felt like the coast and was fairly busy with people sitting by the water and walking. My dear friend Catherine had told me about a boulangerie (bakery) in town that was tucked away. It smelt divine and I indulged in a delicious strudel type pastry with pear and chocolate.

Kamouraska shoreline.

Lone boat on the water at Kamouraska.

Amazing bakery in Kamouraska.

It's actually a wonder I made it to Rivière-du-Loup given how many stops I made!! East of Kamouraska the scenery got more rugged, with rocky outcrops appearing inland. There was a lot of agriculture and the farmers were busy harvesting their hay. There was quite a strong smell of manure in some areas and I couldn't help remember as a kid wishing I could have my own tractor and muck-spreader, I am happy my parents did not encourage that dream!!

25 September - You really had to be there

Quebec to L'Islet-Sur-Mer 85km (6431km total).

Words and photos cannot do today justice, you really had to be there!! I was slow to leave as I just wanted to soak up the sights and atmosphere of Quebec for as long as I could. Getting out of the city was much easier and quicker (pretty much straight downhill) than Montreal as I took the ferry from beneath the Chateau Frontenac. It is a short hop across to Levis that also affords you stunning views.

View from the ferry.

La Route Verte crossed right in front of the ferry terminal and guided me through Levis on bike paths busy with locals and tourists. A few people had told me this section of the route following the south shore of the St Lawrence would be beautiful and they definitely were not wrong!! At times La Route Verte was on the shoulder of route 132 and at times it took off on scenic little detours through the many small towns including Beaumont, Saint-Michel-de-Bellechase, Berthier-sur-Mer. As today was going to be a relatively short ride at 85km I just followed the signs and was rewarded with narrow back streets and amazing views of the river. Route 132 was never very busy and passed through farmland and forests. The leaves are already starting to change, I find the colours quite magical and really love this time of year. It was a beautifully sunny day and I could feel the warmth of the sun so rode for most of the day with my vest unzipped flapping in the wind.

Later in the day I started to notice the hills on the north shore growing in stature and of course there were still many stunning churches. I arrived in L'Islet-Sur-Mer and easily found the municipal campground right by the river and staffed by a very friendly lady. The sunset was beautiful and a fitting end to such a nice day. 

Looking across to the Laurentians on the north shore.

Church in Cap-Saint-Ignace.

J'adore Quebec

I am not really a city person so I was a little surprised with how much I fell in love with Quebec. I think mostly because it is so unique, it has an old world charm and obviously reminds me of Europe. I woke to a stunning day with barely a cloud in the sky. Danielle's aunt Monique had offered to meet me for a walk and lunch and so it was that I got to spend a few hours walking the sights with her. She was awesome company and made sure to show me all the highlights and a few hidden gems. 

Monique also invited me for dinner later in the evening and her husband Pierre cooked a lovely meal after which we popped out for a stroll to see Quebec after dark. It really was a beautiful day and this city has definitely made it on to my fairly select list of places I would like to come back to.

Outside the parliament building with wonderful gardens.

View of the Chateau Frontenac, terrace and port.

One of the 'stair-masters' of Quebec to get between the upper and lower parts of town.

View from Monique and Pierre's little rented appartment in the heart of the old town.

My reference for where to turn to get back to their appartment for dinner, the 'cannonball' tree!!

23 September - 3 days riding in 2

Trois-Rivières to Quebec (City) 139km (6346km total).

I made a quick tour through Trois-Rivieres and continued east on the 138. I had left at a good time with the hope of getting to Quebec if the weather and wind decided to co-operate like yesterday. Early on I made a quick stop to check out the hugely impressive Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-Du-Cap. I have been a bit disappointed that most of the information signs have only been in French. I have had to use my rudimentary high school French a few times but it doesn't stretch to complicated historical references.

Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-Du-Cap. 

It was another blustery and overcast day but I had pink lenses in my glasses and the wind still seemed to be in my favour! It really was a nice day riding beside the St Lawrence, it is going to get wider the further I go but it is already quite spectacular with the water being a mix of different blues and greens. The occasional tanker also passed slowly by. I stopped at a few picnic areas by the river although it was too cold to hang around long, I seemed to be constantly adjusting clothing, the venting zips in my jacket, rolling my sleeves up and down and changing between cycling and full fingered gloves a few times throughout the day. The skies were impressive too and I was sure I would get rained on as the day progressed.

St Lawrence or Fleuve Saint-Laurent (in French).

The small towns I passed through again often contained a large church whose spire/s you could see from quite a distance. There was also a lot of farming which didn't always smell good and apple orchards which smelt wonderfully sweet. I took a detour to see this old windmill by the river.

I stopped in Donnacona which had quite a few shops and services as Hwy 40 also passes close to town so I decided to head to Tim's for a late lunch. I was super hungry and still had a way to go and the chilli hit the spot. As I was inside the heavens opened so I sat a little longer and had a cup of tea. Finally the local skies cleared and I was on my way. My legs were starting to tire and as I got closer to the city I remembered how hilly it was! (I have been twice before but for incredibly brief overnight work stays). The 138 was staying close to the river but when there was a long descent into Cap-Rouge I knew I was going to be in for some suffering!! At 124km (270km for the last 2 days) the wet road turned 90degrees and went seemingly straight up, I didn't make it far before my legs and Achilles were screaming. For the first time on this entire trip I was walking a hill, but I was fine with it. As I struggled to push my bike and Bob up the sidewalk in my bike shoes I briefly thought back to the Rockies and how far I had come. 

Finally I made it to the youth hostel, originally a convent inside the old walled part of the city. Amazingly I had managed to escape the major storm showers despite riding on wet roads for the last couple of hours. I was pretty exhausted having covered 285km, pretty much 3 days riding in 2.

A rainbow manages to cut through the dark skies.